Installing non original automotive lighting parts can be done in a lot of ways serving numerous purposes. To make it cosmetically comform with a car, function better, with more features is an art. Anyone can buy and mount different pre made lighting parts that are specifically designed for a certain vehicle. Very few have the skills and ingenuety to create new combinations and take cosmethics and function to a new level.
In 1990s, Bosch HID headlights were sold under marketing name "Litronic". Later
the markeing name "Bi-Litronic" came, which was a dual beam HID system.
Around year 2000, Bosch and Magnetti Marelli formed a joint venture in the US called
Automotive Lighting. Bosch has since pulled out of this joint venture, and appearantly Magnetti Marelli has sole ownership in the former joint venture, occupying the former North American Bosch Lighting design and manufacturing facilities.
Headquarter for AL is in Reutlingen, Germany.
If you come over a projector unit that has a small horizontal optic
across the center of the lens, it is most likely a lamp manufactured by "Automotive Lighting". This optical component is for meeting the minimum US overhead sign lighting requirements. Ballasts are typically labeled "AL".
One of these three 12V should do the trick:
Does above look like DC? That's how output from a battery charger looks like! Nasty!
The difference between "powerpacks" mentioned above and a battery charger is:
You probably wash your exterior of your vehicle at times so you would think that would keep lighting 100% at least for 10 years. Not so. All headlights has some sort of breathing holes so that pressure created by warm bulbs can go in and out. The breathing holes were made intentional, because if there were none, headlight would need to be air tight and that is a very costly headlamp to make considering bulbs has to be change every couple of years. Conclusion is that road particles will enter regardless over time.
Below is picture of reflectors from a 2000 Audi TT that has been on car for 5 years. The left one is untouched, the right one is cleaned. The were placed beside each other when image was taken, so exposure is identical. However, reflections will be slightly different because of differnt angles. Entire reflector has a thin film from road debries, but the cloud above center hole really stands out. That is enough to loose long distance beam reach, and headlamp will look "cloudy".
Cleaning the outside of a plastic headlight should preferrably be done with plain dish soap and water. lenses made of glass will get more clean by using a high qualty streak free windshield cleaner. So far it should be very streigth forward.
However,
cleaning the inside of a headlamp becomes more tricky since you will
face the same challenges as cleaning the inside of a bottle:
Remove the headlight bulb.
Remove the headlight from the car.
Fill the headlight about 1/2 full of distilled water and put in
a few drops of dishwashing liquid.
Cover the bulb opening and shake the housing for a minute or
so.
Pour out the soapy water.
Fill the headlight about 1/2 full of distilled water.
Shake, drain.
Repeat rinse.
Rinse again with 1/4 cup of rubbing alcohol added (promotes
drying).
Drain.
Let headlight dry, open end down (overnight), or you can use a
hair dryer to speed things up.
Reinstall headlight.
Reinstall bulb.
The main rule is: DO NOT TOUCH THE PARABOLIC REFLECTOR ATTACHED TO THE PROJECTOR LENS. You will permanently ruin it because of the oils from your hands. There are two ways to avoid that:
Never stick your hand in and attempt to clean any of the projector except the very outside. If light from the HID bulb does not shine on it, then you can touch it with your bare fingers. But if light shines on it, it is best not to touch it. To get it professionally cleaned, you can take it to a camera repair shop. Be prepared to lectured the staff how expensive and delicate these are. They will use special tools and chemicals and will most likely do a great job.
Now over to cleaning curved lens:
They are made of glass, so surface cannot be destroyed by even the toughest
chemical, so you can use any glass cleaner of choice. The important is that glass
cleaner do not leave any residue. But if there is sand (from
sand paper or road grime) you have to follow same procedure as cleaning reflector
surface - see further down.
Now over to cleaning reflector area:
You can only use pure solvents such as pure isopropyl alcohol(100%) or
pure methanol. Herman has used 90% "rubbing alcohol" with good results.
The remaining 10% in rubbing alchol is normally destilled water.
Do not use tap water, not even filtered. If you ever have to use water on optics,
use distilled water that you can find at your pharmacy/grocery store.
Note that some reflector surfaces cannot withstand chemicals, so try your selected
chemical first on a non active surface where light source does not hit.
If isopropyl alcohol or "rubbing alcohol" makes reflective surface even the slightest
tendency to dullness, switch over to a mild dish soap and hot destilled water.
Failure to do so can result in a defective reflector, which means entire projector unit
is toast!
Do not use paper towels to clean or dry. They are made from wood and
will scratch surface.
Use natural cotton (as opposed to that synthetic stuff that girls use) that you
can find in pharmacies. You can also use lens cleaning paper obtainable
from a photo store. High quality Microfibre cloths like
SPI-Fibe™ Microfiber Cleaning Cloth can also be used.
Never apply pressure to cleaning pad. This means if you rub a piece
soaked in your cleaner on the optics, then
the only pressure applied is the weight of the pad itself. DO NOT PRESS
PAD TOWARDS ANY PARTS OF THE REFLECTOR. Grab the pad
by a VERY small corner and drag it across the surface of the lens. Using
only the pressure of the cotton. Then as you drag it across the surface
use a rolling motion so that as you pick up dirt and grime, you
do not re-expose dirt into the surface. This may require lots of pads and time. There
is several web pages on your favorite search engine on this topic. Simply type in
"cleaning optics" into search box.
No. The members have taken out the acutal projector units
from OEM projector housings. Housings contain the projector units. What
you normally see of the projector is the front lens but never the parabolic
mirror because that part is covered by the housing. Click the following
link to see what we mean by a projector unit:
Projector Unit
1. OEM HID Projectors - see separate page.
2. Ballasts (igniter may be needed if it is a separate component as in Audi TT and BMW 3 Series)
3. 2 HID bulbs (D2S)
4. Relays fed via >12AWG wire from battery (Upgraded headlight harness)
5. Much thought and preparation (extremely important that you plan everything)
6. Ingenuity and detailed planning(if you need to overcome a problem,
look around the house...a coke can helped me)
From a legal point of view, probably not. As you probably know, they drive on the left side of the road and will therefor have the well known rigth side beam flare on the left side instead of the right side. A reflector based headlamp can be taped and will lower the glare. A projector headlamp might have a turnable reflector so that the flare turns up on the other side. But that is only possible if the cutoff line is a straight V form. Many projector lamps have a "Z" beam, and you should be able to flip the shield around. Flipping the shield will lower the total output, because the reflector and shield are designed to work as a pair.
Both lm (lumems) and cd (candela) is a measurement of the amount of light. Comparing them would be like testing apples and oranges. Lumens is a measurement of the total light coming from a light source. The number will (theoretically) be the same whether you are using optical mirrors or lenses to increase brightness to a certain direction.
Candela, on the other hand, will increase drastically if used with optical mirrors and lenses. A good example here is a spot beam driving light with a 5 dregree narrow beam opening. Even with a 55W bulb, several hundred thousands of candela can be achieved. For reference, 1 candela equals to the brightness of one good old candelight. Both ECE and DOT regulations has limitations of maximum candela at certain spots in the beam.
For the technical interested, here is the formula:
For a spherical light output, lumens = candela * 4pi. (For incandescent
bulbs most manufacturers use 12.57 as "4pi".)
For a directed beam, lumens = candela * 0.00024 * (beam angle)^2
where beam angle is in degrees.
Headlamp manufacturers uses a sophisticated calibrated light meters. However, for home use, this is an example of a light meter:
A light meter can be obtained from a variaty of places: photo stores, lamp stores, or can be rented on a daily basis from
a professional equipment depot for a low price.
Headlamp manufacturers measure certain spots in the beam. Explained simply, the light in those spots has to be below or above a
certain value measured in luminous flux to comply with a desired standard (DOT, ECE, harmonized, etc...)
All the details are described here:
http://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/wp29wgs/wp29gre/grenwdoc/gre2001-28.pdf
Many bulb manufacturer gives out the lumens value, but that is a measurement how powerful the bulb is,
not how powerful the combination of optics in the headlamp AND bulb is.
Comparing 2 different bulbs can be done with somewhat scientific result at certain spots on the road, lets say
at 50 and 100ft, and left, center and right. That should be 6 measuring points.
Yes, it does. Hella makes them and the quality is excellent. See here for more details.
Checkout the update page for recent updates.
Please visit the online forum. There are plenty of people that have automotive lighting as a hobby and are willing to help you.
None of Authors (mentioned on the front page) are affilliated with Philips, Osram or any other company. This FAQ is written solely based on what has been discussed (sometimes to death) on the forum, which may or may not be 100% corect.
Copyright 2001 - 2005 Automotive Lighting FAQ