Electrical - HID ballasts
What is a ballast?
A ballast will supply HID bulb with monitored and contiouesly regulated voltage.
What is determines a good quality ballast?
A good ballast is one that is used by OEM. Examples would be Philips, Hella, Matshushita.
What is an igniter?
Some ballasts have ignitor function bulit in, others don't.
An igniter will supply HID bulb with temporary high voltage (23kV) until
arc is created inside HID bulb.
What is the best: Non integrated or integrated igniter?
There aren't really big differences:
Use a separate igniter HID system
if there is a need for more than 8 inches long ballast to bulb wire. Many cars are extremly crampy around the headlights, so having a small igniter build into to bulb
plug or into a very small box in the wiring, means that the ballast (which is a bigger box) can be mounted in the trunk if needed. Total physical volume of a separate ignitor HID systems are bigger, because of extra wires and connectors. So there is no advantage (rather a disadvantage) to using it if mounted less than 8inches from headlamp.
Use a integrated igniter HID system (like the Philips LVQ212) if you have space enough space inside or around your headlight for it and a small enclosure for weatherproofing.
Can I replace a ballast with a different brand, from an electrical standpoint?
Yes, it will work, but it will not be optimised. The life expectancy of HID bulb can be lowered,
the ballast can be overloaded. The
key here is that a ballast is designed for a specific HID bulb. The standard D2S was a label for regulatory
organisations (DOT, ECE) to incorporate into current regulations so that it could be used on public road.
It covers basics like the physical size, 23KV ignition voltage and ~85V maintenance voltage. In real life,
there are as many standards as there are manufacturers. Expect to see differences in
among various ballast brands:
Startup sequencing. At what curcumstances is 20kV too much,
at what curcumstances is 22kV too little.
Length and shape of ignition pulse strike.
Length and shape of transition from ignition pulse to maintenance voltage.
Detect and vary parameters for variuos bulb temperatures.
By looking at what OEM uses for ballast and bulb combinations, a list has been put together:
List of tested exchangeable brand ballasts:
Philips
Hella
Bosch
Can different brand ballast and ignitors be mixed?
Not recommended. It will in most cases work, however some parts in the HID system
might suffer an early death.
What is a D1S ballast system?
The defintion of a D1S system is that HID bulb and ignitor
is one part. This is a safe system. High voltage does not have to pass through
a connector. Downside is somewhat higher cost to replace if bulb break: The added parts
cost for the integrated ignitor would be around 20-30% of HID bulb.
How does Hella Gen 4 HID system look like?
A D2S (or D2R) bulb will go right into the big hole in the ignitor. This is a D2S system with
ignitor built into plug that connects to HID bulb. A wiring harness is part of the system and as you can see, they do not have any thick high voltage shielded wires. When purchasing, make sure you get this wiring harness. It is a properiorty plug, which is next to impossible to chase down separately.
Dimensions of ignitor is (LxWxH) 54mm x 48mm x 29mm, which is sligthly bigger than Hella gen 3 ballasts.
What HID ballast versions does Philips currently have on the marked?
1.LVQ-212 has built in ignitor and is for D2S and D2R bulbs only.
2.LVQ-212 L300 same as above but it is E-labeled E4 (Netherlands)
P/N 9287 006 17100. Location of High Voltage wire and 12V power is mirrored compared to (1). All plugs & connectors are the same. This is probably ment for European marked.
(1) and (2) have the same specs labled on the box. Herman
do not see any reason why they otherwise should be different.
3.XenStart does not have ignitor bulit in and is designed for Xenstart D1S or Xenstart D1R bulbs only. Ignitor is
integrated into bulb.
What is the difference between a LVQ-212 and the similar looking Hella gen 3 ballast?
Operationally and sizewise, they are identical. There are appearantly some minor differences
inside, but details is currently unknown and is not important. The printed curcuit board
inside both units are labled "Hella",
and for the untrained eye, all components look the same.
Is the LVQ-212 water and acid proof?
No. It is designed to withstand light mist of non acid water. Splashes from
high pressure washers, big pot holes, heavy downpour with hood open, garden hoses,
liquid battery acid and battery fumes will enter the ballast unless protected. In most cases
electronic components that are build in will degrade and ballast will intermittant or permanently
fail. If water enters ballast overtime, it will create corrosion and eventually a total failure will happen.
How do I protect the LVQ-212 from mechanical elements?
The LVQ-212 is pretty solid itself and does not really really need any protection
from hardhanded mechanics.
How do I protect the LVQ-212 from fluids?
Below is an example of special encapsulation out there on the market that exists
in both alu and plastic. None of them have any fluid protection. They all have large cutouts around the 2 terminals and vent.
Here is a few exampels that will work:
Encapsulate it in a generic $3 ABS box, easily obtainable from an electronic component store.
The bottom can be left open. This will simulate the protection the LVQ-212 gets in an OEM
application. It will be water proof from above. Ballast
vent has free air passage down the sides of ballast.
Dip entire ballast with cables connected in Plasti Dip. Use paint tape to
cover vent between the 12V power plug and high voltage wire during dipping. It must not be blocked under normal operation. Components inside creates some heat and without a vent a pressure buildup and condensation might occur.
If you do not have the time for any of examples above, mount ballast vertically with
connectors facing down.
How do I safely mount the LVQ-212 ?
Like any ballast, the LVQ-212 has a rather large mass and
need to be screwed tight. Welcro band works for a while,
but will eventually fail resulting in ballast hanging in high voltage wire.
This will put your bulb monting clip on a test. How long time will it hold this???
Then there is "Zip-ties" - It sure works, but it makes
your underhood look like a test lab.
The simplest and probably best looking is a lexan sheet cut to be slightly bigger than
flat side of ballast. Drill holes in each corner of lexan sheet and glue it with JB Weld so that
ballast cover still can be opened.
The reason I suggested Lexan sheet is because LVQ-212 aluminum
box is wired internally to ground. If you use a metal sheet instead of plastic,
and your car body has negative polarity, ballast will be grounded through car body.
The internal automatic shut down feature will then be disabled.
If your car body has positive polarity, you can short curcuit by letting ballast touch
body metal.
What is the function of the white ballast lead inside high voltage wire of LVQ-212?
On the Philips LVQ-212 ballast, the white "wire" inside the black high voltage
ballast wire is a kevlar line designed to prevent elongation (stretching)
of the cord. The other 2 wires are live high voltage.
Where can I get the odd 12V power plug that goes into
the LVQ-212 ballast?
It is a standard connector for a 9006 bulb. If you are looking into purchasing this plug you
should know that the LVQ-212 should be sold with a high quality 9006 connector already crimped
onto wires. If you did not get one, go back to your seller and require it. Alternatively, lower quality
9006 plugs are sold at NAPA, Pep Boys, Canadian Tire, etc. In most cases, OEM 9006 connectors
from a junk yard will be a better connector as long as it is connected on the yard.
What is the input power polarity on the LVQ-212?
See this picture. Also note that housing is internally grounded to the
negative wire. They are internally protected, even if you reverse the wires, they
will not be damaged.
What is the dimensions of high voltage plug on the LVQ-212?
How does the LVQ-212 shut down feature work?
Since it is dealing with high voltage, a nice shutdown feature
was built into it. its a good safety feature in a collision.
It will protect rescue workers. Fuel and sparks is a higly
flammable combination and should be kept to a minimum if possible.
LVQ-212 and newer Philips ballasts might be the only HID ballast
with automatic shutdown.
Lets say the resistance goes too high
(indicative of a broken or missing bulb), what will happen?
Ignitor portion of ballast will try to fire bulb with
23kV for a few seconds and turn off and not try again until
12volt power is removed and reapplied (=reset).
Apperantly, LVQ-212 can be reset 8 times, then it will
permanently shut down. Do not try this - no sense in intentionally killing
a good ballast. So, if your HID system is not firing up as ususal,
do not loose your temper and start switching light on and off. This
will make LVQ-212 permanently shut down. Conclusion is to do 2 or
3 resets, and then wait a good period of time (maybe 15 minutes)
before you try again.
Is it possible to fix a LVQ-212 that has permanently shut down?
Out of behaviour of the shutdown function, it seems like there is a
internal fuse link in between 12V power terminal and curcuit board.
On a working LVQ-212, ground on the curcuit board
is connected to the aluminum casing. So the fix would
be to open up ballast and solder in ~10Amp fuse link between negative
terminal and casing.
What happends if LVQ-212 are powered without bulb connected?
The ballast cannot sense if there is a blub at the end of the wire or not
before 23KV is applied. The nature of high voltage is to find the
shortest way across and create an arc there. In a P32-d application,
the arc will strike between the center and the outer terminals. The first
strike will discolor the red plug inside. Many additional strikes will make
deep grooves in the plug.
Continous resets might shut down ballast permanently.
What do I do if LVQ212 is too big and ballast to bulb wire is too short?
This wire can not be extended. A better ballast
choice would be the D1S Xenstart.
A Panasonic ballast can also be used. Wire length
from ballast to ignitor is 18 inches, but this can easily be extended.
All you need to have room for is a small ignitor unit within 8 inches
from bulb.
The high voltage wire on LVQ-212 is damaged - now what?
It can be spliced back together. The important part is to solder and to keep the
center of wires minimum 5mm from each other. This can be done by using some high
quality automotive silicone. Pull a heat shrink tube over as outer layer to
keep it mechanically together. It might be tempting, but do not extend wire beyond the
original length.
Bosch Ballast description
This came OEM on 2000+ Audi TT, 1999-2002 BMW E46 and 1995-2002 E38.
Ignitor is separate from ballast.
Ballast has a huge gray plastic cover that can be removed. This will make size of ballast
alot smaller. There is a male 12V power connector in the plastic cover. From this connector, there
is 2 wires coming out, one yellow (positive), one brown (negative).
What can I gain from making my own ballast?
Many of us, including the writer, have dreamed about ways to make a ballast for 1/4 of the price of what it is over the counter. The idea is good, but fact is that you will fail
in making it for less money, same quality and same risk. It is not too hard to create a ballast circuit that can ignite a D2S bulb with 23kV and keep it alive with 85VAC. But
ballast will not be able to restart a hot bulb. The transition face between startup and regular burn needs be monitored very closely and voltage must be regulated accordingly.
In addition to these 3 very different cycles, there are temperature differences that needs to be compensated for. Unless these considerations are taken into account, bulb life
will be very shortened. D2S bulbs explode if ballast overpowers it. Mercury at 1500F is nothing for amateurs. The inventor of the worlds first vehicle based HID system,
Philips, took 5 years to make a their ballast work properly and safely.
Here is 2 links for reference:
Generic univerisity study: http://www.cpes.vt.edu/cpespubs/proceedings/files/2001pdf/1_01.pdf
Very detailed description on how ballasts works: http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/theses/available/etd-11192001-150026/unrestricted/Thesis_Yongxuan_Hu.pdf
A quality new ballast can be had for USD 130-200 new, USD 50 -100 as used. It is worth evry cent!
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