If they are not quad beam (separate high low reflectors), they might be available on the
aftermarked. It will simplify install alot.
Ideally, they would have to be of the clear lens type.
Making textured front lens clear is only possible if they are made in
plastic. The sanding/polishing is very time consuming and can easily end up in a
dead end project.
Most of the after marked headlamps have poor
quality optics and sometimes even weatherproofing suffers, but that can be
optimized. Weatherproofing
is fixed by re-siliconing the front glass. Getting world class lighting
performance consists of finding the biggest OEM projector unit that
will fit in there. Ususally its the vertical hight and depth that will limit
the choice. An easy route to get projector units mounted is to make a
backplate out of lexan: (Lexan is described Tools and Materials page):
Do not mount projector too far back in the housing, the light that would normally
hit ground around 5m in front of car will hit
bottom of housing and be reflected
up in sky. Optically, you can mount the projector unit as close to the front lens as you
desire, but appearnce will suffer the closer you get.
Projector units mounted too far out will stick oddly
out in the front of the housing, decreasing overall
cosmetic appearance (imagine how that would look in picture below!).
There is 3 dimensions of mounting that are important:
Area on the side of the projector unit can be made prettier by filling up space
around with a custom made cover. In the picture above Josh is showing his
cover which are made out of a wheel cover. Finding materials for a cover is
only linited to imagination. It can be custom made in high temp epoxy putty, sanded
down and send to plastic chroming or simply painted with flat black. It can
be cut out from big cofee cans or stainless steel lids that mom use for
covering pots. Polished stainless steel is mistakenly close to the finish of
high gloss aluminized surface. Other examples are metal roof flashing for
vent pipe,
metal lamp shade, assorted plumbing parts (a 4" to 3" ABS reducer fits great
for large Bi-Xenon projector units).
The important part is that shape is
cylindric and/or conic.
Take a tour with projector unit to your local kitchen store, Walmart,
Home Depot etc.
Note that (stainless) steel is the most time consuming material. Aluminum is
softer, plastic is easier. Being able to use a powerful scissor is a great
advantage.
http://www.hidtech.com/ sells premade projector enclosures for projector unit. The types they have seem to be intended for Bi-Xenon projector versions originating OEM from 2002+ vehicles. They tend to have larger curved lens than earlier years projector units. So make sure hole diameter is not too big.
Temprature inside headlamp is affected by two sources:
more: http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/thread?forumid=216460&messageid=1066284248&lp=1068501965
Most common way is to leave rear end of hid bulb and bulb connector unsealed, making connection prone for intrusion of liquids. Herman would never recommned it. Something similar to the Hella 90mm can be made for a a OEM HID projector. Instead of a cylider, make a cone: http://hanker.tripod.com/headlight-level3-project-low-beam-mods.htm A CV joint from a small car (Fiat, Ford Aspire, etc) work, but they will require some extra space behinf headlight.
Back to previous pageCopyright 2001 - 2005 Automotive Lighting FAQ